John Hancock, first governor of Massachusetts - in this portrait, he wears a hard front wig, most likely made from yak or horse hair and powdered. Until the revolution, a heavy powdered wig was standard for a respectable man. Though it would have been made from hair, it is better to think of these wigs as a hat as that is how the men regarded and handled them. The heavy powdered wigs quickly went out of vogue at the end of the 18th century, being seen as an affectation of the aristocracy, a class that was especially reviled after the French revolution.
Wig Styles and Their Meanings
In the above etching, James Otis (generally credited with coining the phrase “Taxation without Representation is Tyranny”) is pictured wearing a “bob” style of wig. This shorter style is often seen on members of the clergy. It’s hard to be certain, but it appears as though we see Otis’ own hair peeking out from under the hard front of the wig - his widow’s peak would have stood out against the typical square hairline. This painting of Samuel Adams shows one of the stylistic choices painters seem to have used in the 18th century. On first glance, we appear to see Mr. Adams in his own hair - the hairline is natural-looking, compared with the painting of Hancock above. Later in life, paintings of Adams show his wig less severely. Both of these painting were done in the early 1790’s. In the left painting, we seem to be seeing Adams in his own hair, with a thinning top. Like the painting of Samuel Adams, the painter has chosen a natural treatment for Adam’s wig.
I have heard, indeed, that my predecessor [President Adams] sometimes decided things against his council [Cabinet] by dashing and trampling his wig on the floor. This is probably the most well-known portrait of John Adams, painted during this presidency (1797-1801). An elderly, balding Adams in 1818. While the silhouette of the hairstyle appears very similar to the wigs of his earlier portraits, wigs for men had gone largely out of use by this date. It is certainly possible that Adams clung to the style of his youth, as people tend to do. It is also possible that by this point he had chosen to wear his own hair (and bald head). Adams just before his death in 1826.
Portraits and the Transition Away from Wigs
This double portrait shows John Adams (yes, we’re obsessed with him, apparently) and Abigail as a young couple. His wig is a very impressive specimen, with its large, full-bottom and coarse curls. This is probably her own hair, gray by the time of this portrait in the mid 1790’s, though she could certainly have used hair powder as ladies were wont to do. The style is similar to the previous portrait, except that the silhouette is much larger and there is a greater coarseness to it. This painting shows George Washington with Martha and her children. Her hair is dressed in a similar style to Abigail Adams and she has the light cap adopted by matrons. We also see Washington in his simple, powdered with - the long hair is gathered into a tail at the back, called a queue.
There are so many fascinating heads of hair from the Revolutionary War. This blog can only focus on a few examples from an era filled with exaggerated wigs, enormous hairstyles and colorful characters. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. In popular culture, many gentlemen of the 18th century are shown wearing curly white wigs as a part of their everyday look. Gilbert Stuart, the famous portraitist who painted the Founding Fathers, depicted five of the first six Presidents with pure white hair. Modern viewers often assume that these are wigs, mostly due to the proliferation of wig-wearing in movies and television. However, by the time of the American Revolution, wigs were out, replaced by a trend for powdering one’s natural hair.
Wigs as Status Symbols and Military Realities
While it’s true that wigs were a major status symbol early in the second half of the 18th century, by 1800 short, natural hair was all the rage. In the 17th century, hairlines were an important aspect of fashion - a good hairline was the mark of a well-bred man. Unfortunately, syphilis was also on the rise in Europe, ultimately affecting more Europeans than the Black Plague. This happened well before the discovery of antibiotics, so people afflicted with syphilis suffered all the effects, including sores and patchy hair loss. Wigs were commonly used to cover up hair loss, but their use did not become widespread until two Kings started to lose their hair. King Louis XIV of France experienced hair loss at the early age of 17, and he hired 48 wigmakers to help combat his thinning locks. His English cousin, King Charles II, began wearing wigs a few years later, when his hair began to prematurely grey - both conditions being syphilitic signals.
The wigs, or perukes as they were called, were convenient because they were relatively easy to maintain, only needing to be sent to a wigmaker for a delousing. As wigs became more popular, they became a status symbol for people to flaunt their wealth. An everyday wig cost 25 shillings, a week’s worth of wages for a common Londoner. So, who wore wigs? Good question! British colonial governors more than likely wore wigs, and many portraits of early American political discussions feature rooms of men, many with white hair, commonly assumed to be wigs.
Despite common misconceptions, George Washington never actually wore a wig. He was one of five Presidents who was a red-head, and he powdered his hair white, as white hair was still considered extremely fashionable, and a sign of wealth and knowledge. However, the next four Presidents, John Adams, Thomas Jefferson, James Madison and James Monroe did indeed wear wigs. Military officers, particularly in the British Army, had an ever-changing relationship with the wig. Some officers wore wigs - but only very specific military plait wigs, not the wigs that were bought and worn by the gentry. According to Revolutionary War Journal, “perukes were hot and heavy, extremely expensive, and constantly infected with bugs,” which is not ideal for military use. Campaign wigs, particularly the Ramillies wig, named after a British victory during the War of Spanish Succession in 1706, were used by officers. It was a short pigtail, or “queue” tied near the scalp and at the bottom of the plait. While these queues were originally fashioned from a soldier’s real hair, fake queues quickly became the norm.
George Washington's hair is depicted in such a style in the painting The Courtship of Washington (1860) by John C. McRae. However, just as wigs were reserved for the gentry versus commoners, enlisted soldiers did not wear wigs in the way officers did. Almost as quickly as wigs rose in popularity and physical height, they swiftly fell, weighted down by their cost and philosophy. The Age of Enlightenment brought a new mentality, where educated men became more concerned with the plight of the common man. As a bourgeoise class arose, extravagant expenditure on fashion and hair was perceived as ignorant. Wigs, particularly in Revolutionary France, were considered a sign of aristocracy - the newly wealthy bourgeoise did not want to be associated with nobility, particularly given that those same nobles were quite frequently losing their wigged heads to the guillotine. More and more, wigs began to be associated with deception. While wigs were originally worn to hide effects of syphilis, donning a wig could be taken as a sign that the wearer was hiding not only visual effects of a disease, but perhaps deeper secrets as well.
During the tenure of William Pitt the Younger, Parliament passed the Hair Powder Act of 1795, effectively signing the death warrant for wigs. Unless one met certain qualifications, such as being a member of the British Royal Family or the Clergy, citizens had to purchase a certificate to purchase hair powder. Wigs have made such an impact in historical remembrance that they seem to be represent the symbol of late 17th century history. Hollywood seems to be particularly attached to misrepresenting the proliferation of wigs. TV shows, such as "Turn,” can’t seem to get enough of the white powdered wigs, with every British soldier depicted wearing one. If you’re hoping to catch a glimpse of these artifacts in person, some museums - notably London’s Victoria & Albert Museum - have wigs in their collection. The lasting legacy of wigs is undeniable - British judges and barristers still wore wigs well into the 21st century, although the practice is largely ceremonial now. Despite not being quite as prevalent as depictions in modern day popular culture might suggest, wigs still had a major impact on fashion of the 18th century.
Popular Culture and Modern Portrayals
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