Ingrown hairs develop when a removed hair grows back into the skin. While ingrown hairs can often be treated successfully with home remedies, it’s possible for them to develop into larger issues that may require a dermatologist’s care. An ingrown hair typically develops after hair has been waxed, tweezed, shaved, or otherwise removed. The issue tends to be most common in people with coarse or curly hair who also shave. Your hair’s structure and the direction in which it grows can also influence how likely you are to develop ingrown hairs. For example, tightly curved hair follicles may be more likely to cause the hair to reenter the skin.
Sometimes, ingrown hairs will disappear on their own. “If you have a particularly bothersome ingrown hair, apply a warm compress for ten to 15 minutes,” advises Dr. Jodi Ganz. “This will open your pores, which may help the hair release from the skin. If the hair does emerge, use a pair of sterile tweezers to gently pull the ingrown portion out of the skin. Avoid extracting it altogether, though, as the same issue could occur again. You can potentially prevent ingrown hairs from developing again in the future by using an electric razor or clipper, or applying chemical hair removers.” Rarely, ingrown hairs can become infected, but they can become large, painful growths. At this stage, they may be diagnosed as cysts and require treatment from a dermatologist.
Depending on whether an infection is present, you may be prescribed an antibiotic ointment or pill to take by mouth. If you have a painful ingrown hair or any other skin care issue, turn to Olansky Dermatology & Aesthetics for personalized treatment. Our providers offer a wide range of general dermatology and cosmetic services catered to each patient’s unique needs. An ingrown hair bump, or cyst, extends from your body’s surface and deep underneath it. It often looks like a red pimple with one hair on its surface, but other types can look different and occur on various body parts. Every pore on your skin contains a hair follicle. Pores are the small holes in our skin that allow sweat and oil to reach the surface of the glands underneath. The hair grows from the bottom of your pore and is kept bathed in sebum secreted by the pore. But if the top of your pore becomes blocked due to debris or too much sebum and it swells shut, the hair can’t make its way out, resulting in an ingrown hair.
Keep reading to learn about the types of ingrown hair cysts and how to treat and prevent them. As the name suggests, ingrown hair cysts start as ingrown hairs, but they can look different depending on the type. The following chart summarizes the different types of ingrown hair cysts that can form, what causes them, and how to identify them. In cases of razor bumps, the primary goal of treatment is to reduce the surrounding inflammation and decrease your risk of infection. Possible treatments for razor bumps include: moisturizing and discontinuing shaving, OTC medications containing benzoyl peroxide or retinoids, steroid cream such as hydrocortisone, using body washes and lotions with gentle glycolic acid. Once an ingrown hair cyst has become inflamed and started to change in size, a healthcare professional may need to perform an incision and drainage to shrink the cyst and remove the ingrown hair.
Other treatments by type include: Pilar cysts - these don’t need to be treated but can be removed for cosmetic reasons. Epidermoid cysts - these may go away on their own but may need to be removed surgically. Pilonidal cysts - you typically would try a sitz bath or a warm compress first, but you may need antibiotics or surgery. Steatocystoma - these can be removed surgically or with a laser, electrosurgery (removal with heat), or cold therapy with liquid nitrogen. Oral isotretinoin (Accutane) can help shrink the cysts, and you may also need antibiotics. Eruptive vellus hair cysts - these can be treated with certain topical medications such as retinoic acid or lactic acid, or they can be removed and drained with a needle.
What not to do: Never pop an ingrown hair cyst. Don’t try to lift the hair out with tweezers like you might with typical ingrown hair. At this point, your hair is embedded far too deep underneath the bump or cyst for you to pull it out. If this doesn’t help, you may have a cyst type that requires additional treatment. In most cases, you won’t need to see a healthcare professional for razor bumps. OTC treatments can usually help coax the hair out. If the bumps or cysts become extremely bothersome - or if they aren’t fading - see a healthcare professional or dermatologist. They can figure out the type of cyst it is and drain it or remove it. You should also see a healthcare professional if you suspect an infection. Symptoms of infection include pus oozing from the bump or cyst, increased discoloration, itchiness, increased pain, foul odors, swelling, fever.
The only way you can prevent ingrown hairs from occurring at all is to refrain from hair removal altogether. Even then, ingrown hairs can still happen. Laser hair removal is a good way to get rid of ingrown hair because it destroys the underlying hair follicle. The best way to reduce the incidence of ingrown hairs is to stop tweezing, plucking, and waxing your hair until it has escaped by itself or with the help of a professional. If you decide to remove the hair yourself, practice smart hair removal to reduce your chance of ingrown hair. Some types of ingrown hair cysts can’t be prevented simply by avoiding hair removal. In cases where treatment is needed, a doctor will figure out the best course for you.
How do I get rid of a cyst in my pubic area? If the pubic cyst is caused by ingrown hair, it may go away on its own, or your doctor can remove it. If it’s infected, you’ll need antibiotics. How long does an ingrown hair cyst last? If they’re not infected, some ingrown hair cysts can go away on their own after several days or weeks. Timely treatment can help eliminate ingrown hair cysts and reduce their chance of returning. In some cases, there’s another underlying cause, such as a genetic mutation, which means they can develop again. If ingrown hairs continue to form, see a healthcare professional to rule out any underlying causes.
Treatment and Self-Care Steps
- To treat ingrown hair, stop shaving, tweezing or waxing until the condition improves - usually 1 to 6 months. If you wish, trim a beard with scissors or electric clippers. Don’t start shaving again until all the skin has cleared and ingrown hairs have gone. These steps help control the condition.
- Your health care provider may prescribe certain medications to help manage your condition. Drugs that help remove dead skin cells. A nightly application of a retinoid cream such as tretinoin (Renova, Retin-A, others) helps to clear dead skin cells (exfoliate). You may start seeing results within two months. A retinoid may also help repair any discoloration (postinflammatory hyperpigmentation).
- Creams to calm your skin. Creams or pills to control infection. Antibiotic creams treat mild infections caused by scratching. Creams to decrease hair growth. Laser hair removal and electrolysis. Your health care provider might recommend laser-assisted hair removal, which removes hair at a deeper level than does shaving, waxing, tweezing or electrolysis. Laser treatment slows regrowth and is a longer term solution.
- Before shaving, wash the affected area with a warm washcloth or soft-bristled toothbrush. Rinse and apply a cool, wet cloth for a few minutes. Then use a soothing after-shave product. If you’re able, avoid close shaves. Try using electric clippers set to leave some stubble. If shaving worsens your condition, you might want to try a chemical hair removal product (depilatory), such as Nair or Magic.
- To get the most from your appointment, prepare. Do you have any relevant brochures or other printed material that I can take home with me?
What you can do in the meantime: In the days before your medical appointment, stop shaving or using any form of hair removal if possible. Ingrown hair may worsen at first as the hair grows back.
Ingrown Hair Under Microscope (ruptured hair follicle/cyst with hair shafts and granulomas)
What Is an Ingrown Hair? And How It Develops
An ingrown hair occurs when a hair grows back into the skin instead of poking through the follicle opening. The hair root passes through the epidermal and dermal layers down to the subcutaneous layer. The bulb at the root produces hair and is surrounded by a dermal papillae that provides oxygen, while above the papillae, a hair matrix produces new hairs and protects pigment. The hair grows from the bottom of your pore and is kept bathed in sebum secreted by the pore. But if the top of your pore becomes blocked due to debris or too much sebum and it swells shut, the hair can’t make its way out, resulting in an ingrown hair.
Normal hair growth is a straight ascent through the surface; however, sometimes the tip becomes trapped beneath the surface. It may curl sideways, loop back into the skin, or become blocked by accumulated dead skin cells. If things go sideways, the body interprets it as a foreign object, triggering an inflammatory response. This inflammation is why you see a classic hair bump: a raised, red, sometimes itchy or painful pimple-like structure, which may or may not evolve into a hair cyst.
Dermatologists often classify ingrown hairs as a form of folliculitis, which simply means inflammation of the hair follicle due to an ingrown hair. This is not unusual because your immune system is reacting to something it thinks shouldn’t be there. Not every ingrown hair will get infected, and the non-infected ones are better candidates for a tweezers pull.
Recognizing and Preventing Ingrown Hairs
If you’re not sure what you’re looking at on your skin, common signs include a small red bump, a visible loop under the skin, itching, mild swelling, and sometimes a pustule that resembles acne. Deeper ingrown hairs may present as a firm, tender nodule that can persist for weeks.
Locations prone to ingrown hairs include beards, neck, underarms, legs, bikini line, pubic area, chest. Risk factors include curly or coarse hair, shaving against the grain, dull blades, over-waxing, tight clothing, and skipping exfoliation. Exfoliation helps reduce buildup that can trap hairs and contribute to ingrown hairs.
Keep in mind that the urge to pluck or pop can be compelling but is often harmful. If a hair is visible, dermatologists generally advise freeing the trapped end and letting the hair grow out rather than complete removal, especially on inflamed areas. Infections require medical attention and may necessitate antibiotics or drainage.
To reduce risk in the future, consider methods that minimize irritation: stop tweezing, plucking, and waxing until the area heals, use laser hair removal as a longer-term solution, and always shave in the direction of hair growth with a sharp blade, moisturize, and exfoliate regularly. If you’re prone to ingrown hairs, you may still have some risk even with hair removal alternatives.
In cases where treatment is needed, a doctor will determine the best course of action. This can include topical retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, glycolic or lactic acids, corticosteroid creams, or antibiotics. For persistent or severe cases, procedures such as incision and drainage, surgical removal, or laser-based therapies may be considered. The overarching goal is to relieve inflammation, prevent infection, and promote hair growth outward rather than inward.
In summary, ingrown hairs and related cysts are common, often manageable at home, but some cases require professional care. The key is early recognition, gentle treatment, and selecting hair removal methods that minimize recurrence.