Shaving Rabbits Commercial: Humane Clippling Guidelines and Best Practices

When you search online for instruction on how to use a clipper on a long-haired rabbit you are sure to find videos and articles in which the rabbits are not treated with care or kindness. This guide provides instructions on how to clip a long-haired rabbit in a kind and gentle way. This advice is for rabbits whose fur is already in fairly good condition. It is not intended for rabbits who are badly matted or felted. If you have a badly matted rabbit, please make an appointment with a rabbit-savvy veterinarian for help. Long-haired rabbits have fur that grows much longer than other rabbits, and that fur must be maintained to keep the rabbit comfortable and healthy. Long-haired rabbit fur forms mats very quickly. Mats are more than a nuisance, they mark the beginning of a significant downward spiral for a rabbit’s quality of life. Mats become felted wool, which can seriously limit a rabbit’s range of motion and ability to move freely. Mats can also pull and pinch the skin, causing constant discomfort. A badly matted rabbit will be constantly hot and overheated.

The parts of the body where a rabbit has the most movement are the areas where a long-haired rabbit will develop mats the fastest. These are called “high friction” areas. Long-haired rabbits don’t all share the exact same fur texture or even the same density of fur. Some have very thick, wooly fur. Others have fine, silky fur. Rabbits with thick, wooly coats are harder to maintain and ideally will be clipped short approximately every 45 days. Those with fine, silky fur are easier to maintain.

Having less fur on their bodies (and being free of mats) means a greater range of motion, allowing them to be more active and athletic. Having less fur also reduces the amount of fur they will lick and ingest.

Using a clipper on a rabbit REQUIRES two people. If you have access to a veterinarian who regularly works with rabbits, I strongly recommend that you make an appointment so they can show you their best rabbit-holding positions and their recommendations for blade handling. Ask what their favorite clipper is and what blades they use. You might meet with the vet tech who has the most experience handling rabbits and operating a clipper at the clinic. Even clippers that claim to be quiet aren’t really quiet, and the noise can be scary for a rabbit.

The first thing to do is to help your rabbit get used to the sound of the clipper by turning it on around your rabbit for a few minutes every day. Have a backup plan. When I first started using a clipper, I was really afraid that I might accidentally cut my bunny. Thankfully that never happened. However, the first several times I made sure that when I was clipping my veterinary clinic was open. You’ll want to take care of your back as you work, so find a table height that works for you. For everyone’s comfort, pad your work surface with fleece blankets or towels. I like to include a garden kneeling pad under my fleece blankets for extra cushion on my helper’s elbows.

There are a number of things to know about using a clipper. One of the most important things to know is that blades get hot with use. As you are working you’ll want to put the blade against your own skin every few minutes so you can keep track of how hot your blade is getting. You definitely don’t want to put a hot blade near your rabbit’s skin. Blades also get dull and it happens fairly quickly. You’ll probably get about three or four full haircuts out of a blade before it needs professional sharpening. On the topic of dull blades: cutting through mats causes blades to heat right up and dulls them down really quickly. Areas that are slightly tangled, or delicate/difficult can be dealt with by first using a small comb. Combs are better than the clipper for small mats and tangles - use the comb to break up the tangles and then follow up with the clipper.

Your right or left-handedness will make some areas of your bunny’s body easier to clipper and others more difficult. 98% of the time we want to move the clipper blade with the grain of the fur, not against the grain. Only move against the grain or across the grain if you can’t get at that fur any other way. We also hold the blade parallel to the rabbit’s skin at all times. Use a clipper blade guard in delicate areas. A clipper blade guard is an important and useful tool that will help reduce the chances of accidentally cutting your rabbit. Keep in mind that even when using a clipper blade guard, you can still catch loose skin, so caution is still needed.

Did you know that a rabbit’s tail is a part of their spine? It may seem like it’s just a ball of fluff but there are indeed spinal bones inside the tail. On a long-haired rabbit with a lot of fur it can be difficult to precisely locate the tail. But when we are removing fur we must be aware of where the tail is so we don’t accidentally cut it. Likewise, if your rabbit has nipples/teats that are not flat to the skin, stop and identify where each individual teat is. You’ll want to use a clipper blade guard in this area. Again, this is to help prevent the nipple from being cut. Almost all rabbits have some areas of loose skin. Where that loose skin is located may differ on each rabbit, but some common areas of loose skin are the dewlap, over the shoulders, at the nape of neck, and the belly. When you are using the clipper use your free hand to stretch that loose skin taut. By gently stretching loose skin nice and tight you are preventing that skin from getting caught up in the clipper blades.

Rabbits also have a web of skin under their arms - their ‘armpit’ area. When using the clipper around the shoulders have your helper move the rabbit’s ears out of the way to protect them. Use a small comb and scissors instead of the clipper for the area directly around the rabbit’s ears. You can also put the clipper blade guard to use in this area.

Haircuts are stressful for rabbits. Even the most easy going rabbit is glad when the haircut is done. So give regular breaks that will allow your rabbit to relax and recover. I recommend working for 10 or 15 minutes and then taking a break for 15 minutes. Your bunny will also appreciate a small treat after each work period. Under the chin and the chest are the most likely areas to have mats. These mats are caused by movement/friction. This area is the most difficult to trim because the body position it requires is especially disliked by rabbits. It is also a delicate area because the rabbit’s jugular veins, airway and esophagus is right there, under our hands. As you are changing positions or getting into upright holds always support the rabbit’s spine. If your long-haired rabbit is older, or it’s particularly cold outside, or he’s immune compromised in some way, you may notice that your bunny is susceptible to the cold after getting a haircut. A clipper blade guard is your friend in this situation because it will allow you to control the length of the haircut. Use a clipper blade guard that will leave enough fur length for a medium haircut instead of a short haircut. Ideally a long-haired rabbit will get a short haircut approximately every 45 days. In-between haircuts you still need to comb some of the furry areas as they grow out. The high friction areas will start to get matted and you’ll be in for an unpleasant surprise if you don’t comb in-between haircuts.

The author’s combs and brushing tools. Consult with your rabbit-savvy veterinarian before you get started. Don’t be in a hurry. Go slowly and use caution. Take breaks during a haircut - it’s best for everyone if you do. Be gentle with yourself and with your rabbit. This is a skill you can learn. Practice by doing. Each time you use the clipper your technique, speed, and confidence will improve! All Rights Reserved.

This guide integrates humane approaches with practical steps, emphasizing preparation, careful handling, and respect for the rabbit’s comfort throughout the clipping process.

humane rabbit clipping setup

Practical steps and tips for a gentle clipping session

  1. Prepare two people: one to hold and one to operate the clipper, plus a veterinarian consultation if possible.
  2. Gradually acclimate the rabbit to the sound of the clipper.
  3. Pad the workspace and ensure comfortable positioning to protect the spine and joints.
  4. Use blade guards in delicate areas and keep blades cool by frequent checks against skin.
  5. Work with the grain when possible and stretch loose skin to avoid catching it in blades.

In-between haircuts, comb and brush regularly to prevent mats from forming and to maintain comfort and mobility for the rabbit.

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