Dermaplaning is a cosmetic treatment in which dead skin cells and peach fuzz are scraped off with a scalpel by a plastic surgeon, dermatologist, or cosmetologist. While dermaplaning removes fine facial hairs, the procedure differs from shaving in terms of the tools used, the amount of skin removed, and the person performing the procedure.
Understanding the procedure and how it compares to similar treatments
Dermaplaning is a noninvasive, low risk skin care procedure to exfoliate the skin and remove facial hair. For best results, seek out a highly experienced and licensed professional who practices proper dermaplaning techniques in a sterilized environment. Dermaplaning and shaving can both be used to remove unwanted hair growth. If removing hair is your singular concern, shaving is an option. But shaving only cuts hair at the skin level and should not remove any layers of skin.
Dermaplaning vs. dermabrasion: Both dermaplaning and dermabrasion are skin procedures done to improve the overall appearance of your skin. In dermabrasion, your skin goes through an abrasion or sanding of skin, often used for more prominent concerns such as acne scars, skin growths, or removing tattoos. Dermaplaning is less invasive and often used to remove fine facial hairs. If you have delicate skin or a darker skin tone, you may be more at risk of scarring from dermabrasion or pigmentary changes, and dermaplaning may be a better option.
Who should consider dermaplaning and who should avoid it
Dermaplaning is good for people who don’t have severe skin issues such as eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, or active acne. It can help even skin tone, brighten a dull complexion, and remove unwanted facial hairs. It isn’t recommended if you have inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, psoriasis, eczema, or sunburn. If you’re taking isotretinoin, you should wait 6 months after stopping it to try dermaplaning.
Dermaplaning isn’t recommended during active breakouts because bacteria from a current breakout can spread to other areas of the skin, making it worse. It is best to go to a licensed aesthetician or doctor if you’re thinking about trying dermaplaning. At-home kits exist, but using them without proper training can increase risks of side effects, including scarring. Insurance typically does not cover dermaplaning, so expect out-of-pocket costs.
What to expect during the procedure
Dermaplaning is a noninvasive, outpatient procedure. Before beginning, your provider may cleanse your skin, discuss goals, review health history, and explain what to expect before, during, and after the treatment. Some providers may apply a numbing cream as a precaution. A dermatologist or aesthetician uses a scalpel or dermatome to glide at a 45-degree angle over the skin to exfoliate and remove hair. The treatment typically lasts about 30 minutes, though it can extend up to 90 minutes depending on area coverage. Afterward, a soothing gel or ointment may be applied to reduce redness or irritation.
Immediate aftercare and what to expect in the first days
Taking care of your skin after dermaplaning is essential. Be gentle and avoid harsh cleansers, toners, or exfoliants. Apply a soothing moisturizer and sunscreen daily, and avoid direct sunlight. There is no formal downtime, but the skin may be more sensitive and red for a few hours to days.
Dermaplaning removes the top layer of dead skin and peach fuzz, leaving skin smooth but more sensitive. Experts recommend a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30 and a moisturizer afterward to protect the new skin. You may notice temporary redness or a mild burning sensation for up to 48 hours after the procedure.
Post-procedure skincare routine: step-by-step
- Stay Sun-Safe: Use a mineral-based sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide daily, even indoors, as UV rays can penetrate windows and irritate freshly treated skin.
- Avoid Makeup for 24-48 Hours: Freshly dermaplaned skin can have increased product absorption, so minimize or choose mineral-based makeup if needed.
- Hydrate and Moisturize: Use a fragrance-free, hydrating moisturizer with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides. Apply on slightly damp skin to lock in moisture.
- Avoid Heat and Sweat: Refrain from saunas, hot showers, and intense workouts for a couple of days to protect the skin barrier.
- Skip Harsh Exfoliants and Active Ingredients: Give skin at least a week to recover before reintroducing acids, retinoids, or physical scrubs.
- Use a Gentle Cleanser: Opt for mild, fragrance-free cleansers twice daily with lukewarm water.
- Incorporate Hydrating Serums: Consider serums with hyaluronic acid or vitamin B5, layering under moisturizer for enhanced hydration.
- Hands Off: Avoid touching, scratching, or picking at the treated skin to prevent irritation or infection.
- Maintain a Simple Routine: In the first week, keep to cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection with a minimal ingredient list.
- Avoid Additional Hair Removal on the Treated Area: Do not wax or thread the treated area for at least a week.
Frequency and expectations of results
Dermaplaning can be done every 3 to 4 weeks, depending on skin type and hair regrowth. It brightens, smooths, and softens skin tone, and can enhance product absorption. It is not a permanent hair removal solution and will not erase deeper acne scars or aging signs; results vary depending on individual skin and technique. For best results, perform dermaplaning with a trained and licensed professional in a sterile environment.
Comparisons with other resurfacing techniques
Dermaplaning is often chosen for its minimal invasiveness compared to dermabrasion or deep chemical peels. Dermabrasion uses a high-speed rotary instrument to resurface the skin and can cause crusting and downtime, making it more aggressive. Microdermabrasion is milder and may require multiple treatments, with less downtime and no bleeding. When considering dermabrasion and microdermabrasion, choose a surgeon with significant experience and affiliated with a major medical center.
Shaving removes hair at the surface level but does not address dead skin buildup. Dermaplaning removes a thin layer of dead skin and peach fuzz, clearing the path for smoother skin and potentially better product absorption. The regrowth of vellus hair after dermaplaning should be the same texture and color as before, with possible temporary changes in feel as hair regrows.
Special considerations and professional guidance
Dermaplaning should be performed by a trained and licensed professional-plastic surgeons, dermatologists, and licensed aestheticians are suitable providers. Do not attempt DIY dermaplaning at home with sharp blades, as improper technique can lead to cuts, infection, and scarring. Some clinics offer services that combine dermaplaning with other aesthetic or dental procedures, under professional supervision to ensure safety and integrated care.
Be mindful of skin health and medical history. Certain conditions or medications (like Accutane) can affect exfoliation tolerance. If you’re unsure about whether dermaplaning is right for you, a consultation with a licensed provider is essential to evaluate skin health, goals, and potential side effects.
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