Many techs are familiar with the issue of under-curing gel, but not so aware of the issues of over-curing gel. When we think of gel polish curing, we instantly imagine the curing process during the service. What many forget is that there is UV exposure everywhere, from having a session on a sunbed to just working at a computer screen. Additional exposure to a certain amount of UV can’t be avoided, however excess exposure from sunbeds, natural sunlight, chlorine, chemicals and solvents will cause problems like discolouring and fading - and could even lead to premature service breakdown.
While it can seem tedious, always recommend that your client take precautions such as drying their nails after each swimming session and before going in the sun (both chlorine and the sun are bleaching agents and together they are double the strength). Solvents such as insect repellent and sun tan lotions contain DEET, which is an effective solvent and can be known to dissolve and cause problems to some materials; fabrics and nail products such as polish and gel polish. I advise that clients wipe their nails or wash their hands immediately after application.
To help prevent some of the problem, you can apply two thorough gel top coats which can deter some of the UV from penetrating directly to the colour quite so much. Many techs find this problem true of some colours more than others especially pinks and corals. The EU dictates which pigments are acceptable and which ones manufacturer’s must use and don’t take issues like this into consideration so it is out of the manufacturer’s control.
The longer gel polish is worn, the longer it takes to remove. While these issues cannot be prevented, there are some steps that both tech and client can take to help. To prevent fading colors - which occurs mostly during Summertime - there are a few different reasons. The stability of the color's formulation is a requirement for all nail coatings, not matter if you use nail polish, gel polish, or color gel. Therefore these products always contain special color stabilizers. As a general rule color pigments are more stable the more gel is in the product as the gel builds a strong "cover" around the pigments. Therefore, nail polishes are more prone to fade than a color gel.
Gel polishes are formulated with acetone soluble polymers making them removable in about 5-10 minutes. Some pigments are sensitive for chemical exposure during daily activities such as bathing, house cleaning, laundry, gardening, car washing, swimming, etc. Especially the sunlight can be a strong chemical accelerator. Tip: Cuticle oil application before going in the water or applying sunscreen can help. Pool water & sunscreen contain chemicals that trigger the fading and in combination with the sun will become much stronger. The oil will build up a barrier between the gel polish and the chemical exposure. Use the right top coat. Apply 2 layers of top coat and cure each.
CASE 2 DISCOLORING: In extreme cases, the colors do not only fade but lose nearly all their pigments. This is a very clear sign that not enough Top Coat has been applied to the nails. Therefore the color coats didn't have enough protection. When you work with the Shellac system, be aware that Express5 is q rather thin top coat and might not be strong enough for extreme summer conditions. Always make sure that you do not put too much pressure on the brush but rather float over the nail when you apply the top coat. On the before and after image you can see that the gel polish was not applied evenly, the edges are not covered correctly, and finally, the top coat was too thin. Also when your clients experience discoloration after using make-up, hair coloring, suntan products, etc. The right application of Shellac or gel polish is essential - not only when it comes to the fading of the colors.
How do you make sure that the layers have the right strength and thickness? If you apply them too thin the color can fade and the product is not as long-lasting as we promise.
