We’ve all been there - and let’s face it, we rush to blame a product before we look at our own techniques and what we might be doing wrong. When purchasing Lash Adhesive, a lot of people want the 'strongest' glue, but that does not mean it is the best one for your level of experience. Strong lash glues generally mean that the drying time is faster, and here may be where the trouble lies.
For beginners lash technicians, we will always suggest using a glue that dries slower such as Satin Bond. Do not worry, it still does its job perfectly well, it will just suit you and your level of experience much better. When placing Premade Fans or Individual Lashes using lash glue with a drying time of 0.5-1 seconds such as Power Bond, but it usually takes you 2-3 seconds, then this glue will not work for you.
Choosing the right glue for your experience
Understanding your glue is just as important as understanding every other step of a lash extensions procedure. Your relationship with your lash adhesive has to be 'for better or for worse' if you want to develop as a lash artist. Across every single one of our platforms, and on the wider internet, one of the main things Lash Techs are constantly asking about is Lash Extensions Glue!
There are typically two glues to suit different experience levels: a slower glue for beginners and a faster glue for advanced technicians. A good rule of thumb is to start with a slower drying time and gradually progress as your hand control improves.
Heat and humidity play a huge role in the way a glue will behave. Each glue behaves differently in different temperatures and humidity. You can take a look at our Glue Chart to discover the optimum conditions for each and every glue.
Storage, usage and maintenance
If your glue does become 'gloopy' and the nozzle gets stuck, then it may be because the glue has not been stored correctly. After every single use the glue nozzle should be cleaned using Glue Nozzle Wipes to keep the glue from curing as it comes into contact with the air. Using our Rescue Kit you can simply get rid of all cured glue around your glue nozzle. After taking out your glue from its air tight container, it is always advised to shake the glue before using it to make sure all of the ingredients are perfectly mixed.
Some lash glues are thinner in consistency than others so you will need to pick up more of it on the lash extension than if you’re working with a more 'viscous' thick glue. You’ll find that the vast majority of lash brands have at least two glues to suit beginners and advanced technicians respectively - a slower glue suits us better when we’re new and it takes us a bit longer to place the extension exactly where we want it. Once our hands stop shaking and we get more used to placing the extensions, a faster glue will suit us better!
Technique and application tips
It comes down to how you dip the lash extension or fan into the glue. This comes down to the way you’re dipping your lash extension or lash fan - if you scoop the glue you will have an excess, and if you pull the fan leg/extension out of the lash adhesive too quickly, you’ll end up with too much as well. You can re-dip your fan or extension into the glue dot and pull it out more slowly to get a smaller bulb of glue on the lashes.
Simply neutralise the old glue drop, use a Glue Shaker to mix your bottle, and dispense a fresh drop. You’re going to want to change your glue drop every 15-20 minutes - the glue reacts with the air and will begin to go stringy. When it’s like this, it really won’t be as effective and will lead to retention issues.
We always recommend waiting for 24 hours after treatment to get your lashes wet but in actual fact the glue will have dried in 8 hours or less. Adding this extra time just means that those bolder clients who will cut the waiting time in half because ‘it’s probably fine by now’ will actually not cause themselves any retention issues.
What to do if you need to remove or adjust glue
Let’s say you were struggling to get the lid off of your glue after shaking and when you got the lid off, the lash glue flew out and went all over your hands. Or you’re using a Glue Ring and it goes all over your hands. In this instance, you’re going to use some of your Cream Remover or Gel Remover and let it soak into the glue for 10-20 minutes so that it breaks down the glue just like you would if you were removing the lashes. Wipe it away with a dry cloth/tissue and repeat the process if necessary.
Get some acetone (nail polish remover) on a cotton pad and wipe it away. If it’s a large amount, you can use your remover and leave it to soak. This comes down to the way you’re dipping your lash extension or lash fan - if you scoop the glue you will have an excess, and if you pull the fan leg/extension out of the lash adhesive too quickly, you’ll end up with too much as well. You can re-dip your fan or extension into the glue dot and pull it out more slowly to get a smaller bulb of glue on the lashes.
Safety, materials and retention
The vast majority of eyelash extensions glues do not contain any latex, certainly no London Lash glues contains any latex. Latex is what makes things stretchy, like balloons or strip lash glue. The vast majority of eyelash extensions adhesives will expire after 6 months unopened. After opening, you’ve got 2 months to use it up before it’s past its best and no longer gives great retention.
Eyebrow glue and lash adhesives vary in drying time, from about half a second up to 5 seconds, with different brands offering multiple options to match your experience. A good eyelash glue is one that gives your clients long lasting lash retention. This will of course be different for each of us, as we touched on above - how long you have been lashing, how hot or humid your workspace is, how you complete your pretreatment and how your clients look after their lashes all factor into this.
Practical guidance
For a more in-depth look at picking the perfect glue based on your experience level, check out this blog post. You’re going to want to change your glue drop every 15-20 minutes - the glue reacts with the air and will begin to go stringy. When it’s like this, it really won’t be as effective and will lead to retention issues. A good eyelash glue is one that gives your clients long lasting lash retention.
Retention expectations and final considerations
The best lash glue for eyelash extensions is one that is safe to use - this is why you must get your lash supplies from a respected lash brand who source and develop the highest quality and safest glues. We hope this helped to answer some of your lash glue related questions!
People often underestimate how much technique and environment affect adhesion, but with the right glue choice, proper storage, and careful application, retention can be optimized for both beginners and seasoned technicians.
