Mustache Hair Style Guide: From Classic Chevrons to Modern Zappa and Beyond

A moustache is defined as any facial hair grown specifically on the upper lip. An extended version of the Van Dyke which wraps around the mouth, with the ends of the moustache (and sometimes also the jawline) flared out beyond the lines that connect to the chin. A beard style incorporating hair on the chin but not the cheeks. Facial hair growing from the chin directly beneath the mouth. This is meant to resemble the hair on the chin of a goat.

A soul patch is grown just below the lower lip, but does not grow past the chin (i.e., goat patch). This facial hairstyle is often grown narrow and sometimes made into a spike. The stereotypical image of a 1960s beatnik often includes a soul patch. The Van Dyke style is a type of goatee in which the chin hair is disconnected from the moustache hair. Often the two patches are shaped and styled independently of each other, sometimes with the chin being made into a narrow oval shape and the moustache flared out like a handlebar style.

This style is sometimes conflated with the "French beard", which has a fuller chin beard. The Zappa style consists of a wide soul patch and full moustache that extends slightly downward past the corners of the mouth. A stubble is any length of hair which is long enough to be seen, but short enough to not fully cover the skin beneath. Similar to friendly muttonchops and sidewhiskers but trimmed mustache and sideburns.

Iconic mustache types and how they’re worn

A long, curvy tail-like extension and a gap between the beard and moustache only on one side. It is inspired by the curled tail of a primate. A more elaborate growth of sideburns which also grow larger toward the chin, resembling a mutton chop (cut of meat with a bone sticking out). A beard which does not include any hair on the face, but includes the hair of the neck, or under the jaw, or both. This beard haircut was inspired by a freshly pressed panini sandwich.

It is a beard with shaved horizontal or vertical parallel lines for a striped pattern, wearers include Zac Efron and Vinnie Paul. A fuller version of the chin curtain in which only the moustache is shaved, allowing the hair on the neck to grow out. Originally known as "Burnsides", sideburns are the patch of hair in front of the ears which connects a beard to the hair of one's head. Related to sideburns and muttonchops, but considerably more extreme. Classic sidewhiskers hang well below the jawline. They may be connected via a moustache, as in this picture of Chester A.

A beard where the middle part hangs from chin leaving it pointed. Similar to a Ned Kelly beard, but with a more intricate styling, such as braids. A pointed beard that is split by a curl at the chin. A beard that evenly extends below the chin, but no more than 20 cm. A full beard that features a goatee, full mustache and horizontal chinstrap with all hairs on the upper cheeks and sideburns removed. A beard with the length of more than 20 cm. A short beard where the moustache is disconnected from rest of the facial hair.

Common mustache styles explained

  1. The Chevron Mustache - the most obvious mustache, growing full on the upper lip with sides shaved, pairs well with a square jaw.
  2. The Outlaw Mustache - similar to chevron but drops a bit more on the sides, curves well with sparser growth.
  3. The Pyramid Mustache - sharper angle on the sides, descending into points, a bolder statement.
  4. The Handlebar Mustache - iconic, bike-handle ends often curled; requires wax for shaping.
  5. The Half Horseshoe Mustache - sidelines stop at the corners of the mouth; resembles a half-goatee.
  6. The Horseshoe Mustache - full mustache with vertical extensions to the chin, business up top, party on the sides.
  7. The Walrus Mustache - the bushiest, hanging down over the lips and sometimes covering the mouth.
  8. The Pencil Mustache - thin, narrow, closely clipped along the upper lip with a gap between nose and mustache.

There’s also the Zappa style with a wide soul patch and full moustache that extends past the mouth corners, and the skin tone and face shape influence which style works best. The pornstache originated in the 1970s among pornographic actors and became popular in the 1980s. American and British culture have seen a resurgence of many classic and modern styles at different times, with the right grooming tools helping to shape intentional looks.

Popular techniques to grow and groom mustaches

To make a mustache look fuller, consider dyeing to match head hair color, or using minoxidil to encourage dormant follicles to sprout. Biotin supplements are sometimes suggested for hair growth, though evidence is mixed. Mustache hairs are shorter than head hairs, so styling is anchored in fullness and shape. Let growth occur for a couple of weeks to assess direction and density, then use a precise trimmer to outline edges. Clean up stray hairs around the philtrum and lip line to create a strong silhouette. For structured or curled styles like the handlebar or English mustache, wax with a strong hold is essential. Consistency in grooming yields better results than constant trimming, and a healthy routine helps maintain skin under the mustache.

Movember is a well-known campaign encouraging men to grow mustaches in November to support health causes. A mustache can alter perceived masculinity, maturity, and attractiveness in impression formation studies, though cultural and historical contexts modulate these perceptions. Earliest depictions of moustache culture appear in ancient contexts, with various cultures developing distinct associations with facial hair. The modern landscape of mustache styles blends tradition with experimentation, allowing each wearer to express personality and confidence.

infographic of popular mustache styles

How to Trim your Moustache

timeline of moustache history across cultures

Notes on history and culture

Earliest depictions of moustaches trace back to ancient Egypt and Celt cultures, with facial hair serving various social signals. The longest moustache on record belongs to Ram Singh Chauhan of India, measuring 4.29 metres. Across eras, moustaches have signified power, rebellion, or fashion, with notable figures such as Kaiser Wilhelm II, Hitler, Sam Elliott, and Salvador Dalí shaping public perception. Public opinion on facial hair varies by time period, geography, and social context, influencing both professional and personal perceptions.

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