How Long Does It Take to Perm Hair?

If you’ve always dreamed of bouncy curls or effortless beachy waves, getting a perm could be the answer. The term ‘perm’ is short for ‘permanent hairstyle’, and this hairstyling technique uses chemicals to give straight hair curls, ringlets or waves. Perms are a two-stage chemical treatment which alter your hair’s natural texture - they work on a molecular level to react with your hair’s proteins and produce curls.

Types of perms and how they work

Cold perms - also known as traditional perms - are generally more suitable for coarser hair, as the alkaline solution used permeates hair more effectively and produces tighter, voluminous curls. If you’re having a cold perm, your stylist will wrap your hair around rollers or rods, and then apply an alkaline solution to your hair. This solution will react with the keratin in your hair and create the curls and waves.

Hot perms are also known as digital perms, and they’re suitable for finer, thinner hair, despite this technique using a heating process. Hot perms create long-lasting, silky waves - ideal if you’re after a beach wave look. This perming method uses a weaker chemical solution to curl your hair, and your stylist will roll your hair in heated rollers and rods to help the perming solution work.

Hair health and suitability

Perms work best on healthy, strong hair which hasn’t been bleached, dyed, or chemically-treated. Virgin, unprocessed hair will ‘hold’ its perm pattern longer than thinner, drier hair which has been chemically-treated before. Wash your hair with products created for curly hair. Where possible, air dry your hair to reduce damage caused by heat styling. Avoid aggressively brushing and combing your curls - it’ll just lead to frizz and damage.

Aftercare and maintenance

If your hair feels dry after perming, our Dream Curls Deep Conditioner is the ideal treat for stressed curly hair - but remember to leave a 48-hour gap between having your hair permed and using any shampoos or conditioning treatments. If you’re careful not to overdo it, perms shouldn’t damage your hair. Modern perming methods and solutions are far less damaging than their 1980s counterparts, but they still can be damaging if you overdo it.

We’d recommend waiting 8-10 months between each perm to give your hair a chance to recover. If you’re new to curls or waves, your hairdresser will give you tips on day-to-day styling before you leave the salon to ensure you’ll look your best. Love gel, but hate crunchy curls? Curls looking flat and frizzy? Dry curls often need a little help to stay looking their best.

  1. Consult a professional to choose between cold and hot perms based on your hair type.
  2. Consider your history with chemical treatments and the current health of your hair.
  3. Plan for proper aftercare and time for your hair to recover between perms.
illustration of cold vs hot perm process

Full Permanent Wave Tutorial | SMA, Rod Wrapping & Chemical Procedure for Cosmetology Students

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