Hair rollers might feel like a throwback to days gone by, and grandmothers in dressing gowns with their curls piled high, but actually they're more relevant than ever. From Raye's modern take on Old Hollywood curls, to Sabrina Carpenter's voluminous styles, there's plenty of inspiration on show on the red carpet, and even festival-goers at 2025's Glastonbury Festival were dedicated to the cause, arriving with their hair in rollers ahead of the weekend. Below, we break down everything you need to know to perfect the bounciest of curls - no stylist required.
What type of hair rollers work best?
There are two main types of hair rollers: Velcro and heated. “Velcro rollers are the most budget-friendly option, perfect for adding volume and bounce, while heated rollers help lock in style for longer-lasting results,” explains Tyler Moore, expert stylist at Live True London. “There are also foam rods, which create a tighter wave, though they aren’t technically rollers. Ultimately, the choice comes down to personal preference.”
Can you use rollers if you have fine hair? Yes you can, and actually they can be great for creating volume, especially if you place them at the roots. You might find your hair feels quite slippery, which is where spending some time on prep work and investing in a great styling spray pays dividends.
Do rollers work on short hair? “Yes, but your hair just needs to be long enough to get a bend in it to create volume or to get a full rotation of the roller,” says A-list hairdresser and salon owner, Luke Benson.
How should you prep your hair for rollers?
“I recommend washing the hair and, while still damp, prepping it with L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART Pli,” says top stylist and L'Oreal Professionnel's UK Editorial Ambassador, Adam Reed. “Pli was originally designed for volumising and wet setting, so this product couldn’t be more perfect. If you are looking for a super volumised look then absolutely add a mousse [try Hershesons Zhoosh Foam or Moroccanoil Curl Control Mousse], alternatively, if you're looking for something a little more modern and wearable, your best is to use something with less hold and a bit more texture like a texturising powder [we rate KEVIN.MURPHY Powder Puff]- it’s about choosing the right product for the look you are trying to achieve.”
Moroccanoil Curl Control Mousse
Do you always put rollers in dry hair?
That would be a firm yes if you're using hot rollers, but it doesn't have to be bone dry if you're using velcro rollers - about 75% dry is fine. “Spray each section of the hair with your styling spray and then wrap the hair around the roller while ever so slightly damp,” says Adam. “What is absolutely key, is you dry the hair 100% before removing the roller, otherwise it will simply flop.” You can blast the velcro rollers with your hair dryer once in place as it will help to ‘set’ your curls, then leave them to cool gradually.
What is the best technique for using rollers?
“Make sure you are placing the rollers in your hair in the pattern you want, exactly like a blow-dry and think about where your parting sits. It is hard once set to change the direction of the hair," continues Adam. As a general rule, it's best to start with your fringe first, before tackling the central sections behind it. Then work outwards from your crown. But play around and work out what works best for you.
Luke also adds that it's important to make sure all the hair stays on the roller and it's as smooth as possible to avoid frizz and any messiness - remember this is about glossy curls not beachy waves.
Are there any mistakes we should try to avoid? "A super common mistake I see with rollers is people not tucking the ends of their hair into the end of the roller, if you don’t do this you will be left with fish hook ends which don’t look the best," warns Adam.
How do we make it modern rather than old-school?
“What will make a roller look modern, in my opinion, is the products without a doubt,” he adds. "This look can be super cool when done right. Talk to your stylist if you're unsure on products. Another top tip of mine to make it modern, is to make sure you brush through the curls once you've removed the rollers, that'll give it a looser more lived-in look. Last, spray with a light hairspray to keep it modern, rather than rigid and stiff."
L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Flex Pli
Color Wow Cult Favourite Firm + Flexible Hairspray
How do you choose hair rollers?
"I like Babyliss Pro for heated rollers and there are lots of easily attainable options for Velcro rollers. Base your choice on the length of your hair and size of roller that will get enough revolutions to get a good bevel or curl in the hair," explains Luke. In short that translates as big rollers are best for long hair and on short or mid-length hair, medium or smaller rollers will give more of an effect.
The Hershesons Self Grip Rollers are a great option for those getting to grips with rollers, whilst Hair by Sam McKnight's The Big Set comes with everything you could possibly require for bouncy, salon-style curls.That said, if you want more of a spiral curl, stick to the smaller sizes. “My tip is, the smaller the roller the more curl you'll get, the bigger the roller, the more volume you'll get,” says celebrity hair stylist Chris Appleton, who's responsible for JLo's bouncy blow dry.
Are rollers better than tongs or wands?
“If you're concerned about heat damage, non-heated rollers are the gentlest option compared to tongs, wands, or even heated rollers. “I always wait for my hair to be at least 80% dry and then I go piece by piece. Blow dry with a flip and then you put the roller in. BUT this is where the most important part comes in. You need to make sure you're rolling it so that the bottom of the hair fully is sticking to the velcro like this. I literally roll, then pull."
The use of hairspray before or after taking out hair rollers depends on the desired outcome and the type of roller being used. - Option 1: Use hairspray before taking out the rollers. Before removing the rollers, lightly mist your hair with hairspray. - Option 2: Use hairspray after taking out the rollers. The choice between using hairspray before or after taking out the rollers depends on personal preference, hair type, and the desired level of hold.
The best approach for putting rollers in your hair, whether wet or dry, depends on the type of roller being used and the desired outcome. - Option 1: Put rollers in dry hair. Ensure your hair is completely dry before using these types of rollers. - Option 2: Put rollers in slightly damp hair. If you prefer more control over the curls, you can lightly mist your hair with water or a setting spray before using the rollers. - Option 1: Put rollers in damp or wet hair. Foam or sponge rollers work best when applied to damp or wet hair. - Option 2: Put rollers in partially dried hair. If your hair is excessively wet, use a towel to remove excess moisture before applying the foam or sponge rollers. Consider your hair type, the desired style, and the type of roller you are using when deciding whether to put rollers in wet or dry hair.
No, you do not typically wet foam rollers before using them. Foam rollers are designed to be used on dry or slightly damp hair. Typically, hair is curled using rollers before the rollers are applied. The rollers create the shape and structure of the curls. However, it’s worth mentioning that some people may choose to curl their hair using alternative methods, such as curling irons or hot rollers, and then use foam rollers or other types of rollers to help set and hold the curls.
The size of the rollers can significantly impact the outcome of the curls or waves. Larger diameter rollers, such as the 1 ½”, 1 ¼”, and 1 1/2″ diameter options you mentioned, are ideal for creating loose, voluminous curls or waves with a relaxed, natural-looking finish. On the other hand, smaller diameter rollers like the 1″, 7/8″, and 5/8″ options are better suited for tighter, more defined curls or waves. The choice of roller size ultimately depends on the desired outcome and personal preference. Experimenting with different roller sizes can help you achieve various looks, from loose and beachy to tight and defined curls.
The duration for leaving foam rollers in your hair can vary depending on the desired results. In general, it is recommended to leave foam rollers in your hair for a minimum of 1-2 hours to allow the curls to set. However, for longer-lasting curls, many people prefer to leave them in overnight while they sleep. This extended period of time, usually around 6-8 hours, allows the curls to fully form and set, resulting in more defined and longer-lasting results. Once your hair is dry, you should remove the rollers promptly to avoid any potential damage or disruption to the curls. Leaving the rollers in for too long after your hair is dry can lead to flattening or distortion of the curls. It is recommended to remove the rollers as soon as your hair is fully dry to ensure the desired shape and volume of the curls are maintained. This timing may vary depending on your hair type, the size of the rollers, and the climate conditions.
Tiktok is obsessed with hot rollers and so am I! This is how you use them.
In short, the best practice is to tailor the timing to the roller type, hair length, and desired hold: damp or dry for velcro rollers, and generally longer setting times for foam or heated options, with careful removal once fully set to preserve volume and shape.